The Lion of Panjshir

We've all had the conversation, "Where were you on September 11th?"  Throughout the Western World, people remember where they were, what they were doing, how they reacted and how, in many ways, the world changed that day.  I am fairly certain that most Afghans do not recall what they were doing on September 11th, 2001.  Little did they know that events happening a world away from them would soon have a direct effect on their daily lives.  The day that Afghanistan remembers and mourns is September 9th, 2001.  I don't remember what I was doing on 9/9/2001.

On September 9th, 2001, Ahmad Shah Massoud was assassinated in Northern Afghanistan.  I don't expect many of my readers to be familiar with who Massoud was.  I wasn't before I took an active interest in understanding Afghanistan and its people.  I'll assume since you are reading this, you have a similar interest.

If you ever have the time and a hankering to study an interesting and often overlooked person, start with this guy.  He spoke five languages fluently (including French) and had a working knowledge of even more.  He was devoted to the arts and stated in an interview that one of his biggest regrets was not doing more to protect the priceless treasures and artifacts that were destroyed by the war and Taliban or went missing (Side note: some of these treasures have resurfaced in the last years after being hidden away and protected by the Afghan National Museum.  A large collection is currently on display at the National Museum of Art in Washington, DC).   All of this contributes to the importance of Massoud, but for time and post length sensitivities I'll focus on his importance as a public figure.

From Mazar-a-Sharif

Ahmad Shah Massoud was a fiercely loyal Afghan.  He spent the majority of his adult life fighting the different forces that occupied his country.  He fought the Russians and was considered instrumental in the constant barrage of guerilla warfare that eventually caused the Soviets to leave.  During the civil war he acted as the Defense Minister and sought to unite the warring factions vying for power.  He is also known for his stark resistance to the Taliban invasion.  

While the Taliban controlled 70% of the country, Massoud and the United Islamic Front for the Salvation of Afghanistan controlled a small portion of the country in the North (hence the more Western friendly name "The Northern Alliance").  The Northern Alliance was comprised of various warlords and tribal leaders, often at odds with each other.  Massoud was able to unite them against a common enemy.   He became the rallying point of the movement  and an international spokesman for the cause of Afghanistan.  He traveled to the EU and wrote letters to the US, pleading for the world to turn their eyes to this little country in Central Asia.  He called for the international community to support the Northern Alliance, not with guns and bullets or money.  He called for increased diplomatic pressure on countries supporting the Taliban.  In an interview with Newsweek two weeks before his assassination, he stated, "We hope that the future policy of the U.S. will exert pressure on Pakistan and also help Afghanistan achieve peace.  That would be much more effective than giving [us] weapons or ammunition."

He dreamed of a free, peaceful and democratic Afghanistan.  He sought peaceful coexistence between his country and the rest of the world.  In a letter to the American people he called for assistance to ". . . overcome the obstacles that exist on the path to freedom, peace, peace, stability and prosperity."  Massoud openly denounces and fought against the harboring of terrorist groups in Afghanistan.  He feared that if the world did not help him in his stand against the Taliban, the world would feel the effects.  While addressing the European Union in April 2001, Massoud was asked if he had any words for President Bush, "My message to President Bush is the following: If he isn't interested in the peace in Afghanistan, if he doesn't help the Afghan people arrive at their objective of peace, the Americans and the rest of the world will have to face the problems.  If President Bush doesn't help us, these terrorists will damage the US and Europe very soon."  

We all know exactly where we were when Massoud's prediction came to pass.  Two days before September 11th, Al Qaeda dealt a first staggering blow to the world and to Afghanistan.  Always a lover and supporter of freedom of the press, Massoud was known for granting interviews to journalists from all over the world.  On September 9th, two Belgian journalists of Moroccan origin were granted an interview.  Some reports say that Massoud knew something was wrong the second the interview began.  Others say that the interview lasted for several minutes before one of the journalist detonated the bomb in his belt.  Massoud was rushed to a military hospital in neighboring Tajikistan where he was pronounced dead.  One of the assassins was killed by the detonation of his bomb, the other killed trying to escape the compound.  It was later found that the men had stolen their equipment from a French journalist almost a year earlier and were both Al Qaeda operatives originally from Tunisia.

Some commentators have said that the assassination of Massoud was the last necessary piece for the 9/11 attacks.  In taking care of Massoud, Osama Bin Ladin removed his Taliban host's greatest enemy and helped insure his protected status.  The Northern Alliance lost its rallying point and unifier.  Whatever happened post 9/11 would be much more difficult with Massoud gone.

Ahmad Shah Massoud was known as the Lion of Panjshir (the Northern valley that he continually held and protected) during his lifetime.  After his death he was nominated for a Nobel Peace Prize and given the title of "Our National Hero" by the new Afghan government.  He has gained almost a mythical standing in hearts of the Afghan people.  His picture hangs from buildings and decorates walls throughout the country and especially in the north.  On September 8th, Afghans mourn the loss of their Amer Sahib e Shaheed (Martyred Commander).

We cannot know what Afghanistan would look like today had Massoud not died 7 years ago.  It might not look much different than it currently does.  Perhaps the fight for Afghanistan would still be happening.  But we can know that Massoud would continue to fight for his dream of a peaceful and democratic Afghanistan.

"I am ready to serve the people of Afghanistan especially for [the cause of] peace.  I am ready for any mission at the service of my people."  Ahmad Shah Massoud

Happy Jesham... I mean, Independence Day!

Today is Afghan Independence Day.  While walking with a friend through our neighborhood, she asked me "Independence from who?"  Afghanistan has been conquered and conquered again throughout history.  Alexander the Great came through here, so did the Mongols, Arabs, Turks, Brits, and Russians (to name a few).  Throughout history, Afghanistan often acted as the battlegrounds for various Indo-European wars and was caught up in the tug-o-war of the fight to control roads going to the East and West.  In modern history, Afghanistan acted as a battleground between the British and Russians during "The Great Game" and the Russians and the West during the Cold War.  For the last 30 years, Afghanistan has been in a state of civil war between different groups with different intervening forces.  So, "Independence from who?" is a great question.  In this case, Afghans celebrate their independence from the British with the signing of a treaty that ended the third Anglo-Afghan war in 1919.  To put it in it's simplest terms, Afghanistan has a long and complicated history.

The big news surrounding Independence Day this year is the 7000 additional police patrolling the city.  Checkpoints are everywhere.  These 7000 police consist of a mixture of national police, city police, presidential guard, all with different uniforms and all carrying their AK's.  It definitely slows travel down.  Several organizations within the city recommended no non-essential travel today; we think that's more to help avoid the hassle that going anywhere would be.  Joey and Steve left for work almost an hour early after it took Joey twice as long to get home yesterday after being stopped by the national police and a detective service.  My only essential travel consisted of a 15 minute walk to a goodbye breakfast I had been invited to.  Don't worry Dad, I didn't walk alone.  It was an uneventful walk with the usual cars slowing down to stare at two western women (and three kids) and a train of children following saying "Hello. How are you? Hello. How are you?"  My least favorite place to walk by in our neighborhood is the police station, they seem more shocked and at liberty to stare at passing women. . . Today they must have been part of the 7000 on duty patrols because they weren't there.  Is it a little strange that I'm glad there were 7000 police on duty because that meant no police bothered me on my walk?  

The Blue Mosque

There are not many tourists in Afghanistan.  When I emailed someone that we were going sightseeing they responded, "Can you do that in Afghanistan?"  Apparently the answer is yes because on our first full day we had a chance to fly up to Mazar-e-Sharif with the other Dynamic employees and have a look around (see map link for location).  

As with most of the country, Mazar-e-Sharif has seen it's share of battles from Ghenghis Khan to the Taliban.  It was one of the last cities to fall to the Taliban and one of the first cities freed (Nov 2001).  Being a stronghold of the Northern Alliance and having a large population of Hazara people and predominately Shia muslims, Mazar-e-Sharif was the scene of some of the most atrocious acts of the Taliban Era.  However, as the first city regained, it is now considered one of the more secure areas in the country.  

The customer being flown had arranged to have a driver waiting at the airport and at our disposal for the day.  We arrived to find an armored car waiting for us complete with security detail.  Not exactly what we had in mind.  Being followed around by a guy with an AK does not make for a day of leisurely sightseeing.  Number 1 safety point, don't look obvious.  Both the guard and driver said they spoke a little English, which usually means they know how to say the phrase "a little."  After making it clear to our guard that he would be staying with the car, we were taken to the Blue Mosque.  We've quickly realized that it is difficult to make concrete plans in Afghanistan; the situation here is fluid at best.  When we arrived at the mosque, there were hundreds and hundreds of people walking through the gates.  Safety point number 2, avoid crowds.  

We called our fixer, Rafi, and asked if he knew of any reason to avoid the mosque.  He asked if the crowd was Hazara, it was.  Then he asked if they looked angry, they didn't.   Then he asked if they were carrying banners, they were.  He said they were either protesting the killing of a group of Hazara by the Kochi tribe (the government has done little to respond. . . but yet again, that's a whole other post), or they were mourning the recent death of one of their leaders.  Since they didn't look angry and weren't protesting the war, he said it was probably safe.  But just to be on the cautious side, he recommended that we take a driving tour of Mazar-e-Sharif and then return to the mosque to see if things had settled.  He told this to our driver, who proceeded to drive around the mosque block about 15 times.  This is when we learned that there isn't much to see in Mazar-e-Sharif besides the mosque.  About lap 10, we realized that the crowd had completely dispersed.  We parked and motioned to the guard to stay and tried to motion to the driver that we would take about an hour at the mosque, and we were off.

A little bit of background, the Blue Mosque is the reason why Mazar-e-Sharif exists.  According to a little legend and a little fact, Muhammad's son-in-law/cousin Ali is buried here.  It is said that his followers placed his body on a white camel after his assassination.  Where the camel stopped would be Ali's resting place.  Most believe he is buried in Najaf Iraq.  However, in the 12th century, it was revealed to a mullah in a dream that Ali was buried near Balkh and the town of Mazar-e-Sharif (Tomb of the Exalted) was founded.  A mosque has stood on this spot ever since. 

I have to say that the Blue Mosque is one of the most impressive sites I have seen.  It is also one of the few mosques in Afghanistan that non-Muslims can visit, or at least enter the courtyard.  The mosque is known for its painted tiles and white doves.  I think the pictures speak for themselves.

Of course, being the only foreigners at the mosque, we garnered quite a bit of attention.  From the moment we entered the gates to the moment we got in the car, we were followed by a group of boys utilizing all the English they knew: Are you tourists? What is your name? What is your father's name? Where are you from? Do you work for the UN? Are you soldiers? Afghanistan, good, yes? Kalishnikov. Can I see your (point at sunglasses, point at cell phones, point at camera)? I have to say that I was impressed with their English.  

As I write this blog post, I realize that there is so much that goes into one day of living in Afghanistan.  It is such a different place than anywhere I have ever lived.  Afghanistan takes a completely new historical and cultural context than what we know. As I write this, the last call to prayer has begun (by our tone deaf mullah across the street). It is impossible to fit each experience into a post without countless explanations and background information.  And of course, I am learning as I go.  As our minds reset, our bodies struggle to adjust.  I currently have a high temperature and have spent the majority of the day in the bathroom.  But, as we are quickly learning, all this is part of life in Afghanistan.